The History and Magic of Oud (Agarwood)
- Nicole Gordon
- Sep 17
- 4 min read
Updated: Oct 27
Beauty, Healing & Sustainability of Oud in Perfumery
I always remember the very first time I smelt oud. It was like nothing I had ever encountered before—pungent yet pleasant, earthy yet mysterious, and deeply alluring. Oud, also known as agarwood (Aquilaria), has one of the richest scent profiles in perfumery. Its scent characteristics have been described as woody, smoky, leathery, earthy, musky, balsamic, resinous, animalic, medicinal, sweet, and spicy. Often called 'liquid gold', oud is revered for its rich, complex aroma and sacred history. This rare essence has enchanted cultures for centuries, weaving together fragrance, ritual, and medicine.
What is Oud (Agarwood)?
Oud, also called agarwood, is the resinous heartwood from trees in the Aquilaria genus, with scientific names including Aquilaria crassna and Aquilaria malaccensis. When these trees are wounded or infected, often by certain fungi, they produce a dark fragrant resin as a defense mechanism. Over time, this resin transforms ordinary wood into aromatic agarwood.
Rituals, Perfume, and Healing Traditions
Oud has been treasured for thousands of years in Asia, the Middle East, and beyond. It has been used in religious rituals, royal courts, incense, and as a symbol of luxury. Oud is woven into ceremonies, beauty rituals, and healing traditions.
Biology & Growing Conditions of Agarwood Trees
Climate and Soil Needs
Agarwood trees thrive in humid tropical climates. They require warm temperatures, abundant rainfall, and well-draining soil to flourish.
Triggering Resin Formation
Natural wounds or carefully introduced stress, such as fungal infection or pruning, stimulate resin production. Not all trees will produce agarwood; only those exposed to such stress will.
Harvesting & Extraction of Oud Oil
Traditional Harvesting Methods
Only the infected or resinous heartwood is harvested for oud. Trees are often left for years before wounding to allow maturation. Wild oud is rare due to overharvesting, making cultivated or plantation-grown agarwood a more readily available and sustainable option for conscious perfumers and consumers.
Steam Distillation and Hydro-Distillation
Steam distillation is a common production method. In this process, wood chips are steamed, and volatile aromatic compounds are collected. Hydro-distillation involves soaking the wood before distillation. Traditional or artisanal methods may include longer curing or natural extraction of resin. The process is slow and labor-intensive.
Uses of Oud
History of Oud in Perfumery
In natural perfumery, oud is valued as a rich, deep base note that adds depth and longevity to a fragrance. Often blended with florals, woods, resins, and spices, it creates complex, grounding perfumes that feel luxurious and timeless.
In Incense and Ceremony
Oud incense has been treasured for centuries in spiritual and ceremonial practices. Burned as chips or pieces of wood, this ritual fragrance fills spaces with its rich, captivating aroma, creating a sense of reverence, meditation, and connection. Its distinctive scent continues to be valued in both traditional and modern ritual settings.
History of Oud in Traditional Healing
In many cultures, oud has been used in traditional medicine and aromatherapy for its therapeutic properties. Valued for its calming and grounding effects, oud oil is incorporated into wellness rituals to support relaxation, reduce stress, and promote emotional balance. From herbal remedies to holistic aromatherapy practices, this natural fragrance ingredient has a long history of enhancing both physical and mental well-being.
Sustainability and Ethical Sourcing
Because wild Aquilaria trees are threatened by overharvesting, habitat loss, and illegal logging, sustainable plantations are vital. Grandawood in Vietnam is a generational plantation that grows Aquilaria trees intentionally. They monitor the trees and harvest only when the resinous heartwood is ready. grandawood.com.au They cultivate, distill, and age their oils carefully. This ensures a sustainable supply and conservation of species.
Rose & Co’s Oud Parfums
At Rose & Co., we are proud to source our oud oil from Grandawood, a family-owned plantation in Vietnam with decades of skill and sustainable practice. Our perfumes Symphony Of Trees, Song Of Solomon, Ode To Ocean, and Call Of The Wild all contain agarwood (oud). We carry on the history of this revered ingredient, offering a deep, resin-wood richness balanced by our natural, ethical approach to perfumery.
Why Sustainability Matters
Authentic, sustainably harvested oud gives you a fragrance that’s rich, complex, and long-lasting. By choosing ouds from trusted sources like Grandawood, you support conservation, ethical labour, and plantations rather than wild harvesting.
In Rose & Co’s creations, oud isn’t just a luxurious note; it’s part of our promise: quality, integrity, sustainability, and connection with nature.
The Future of Oud in Perfumery
As we look to the future, the role of oud in perfumery continues to evolve. The demand for sustainable and ethically sourced ingredients is growing. This shift encourages more producers to adopt responsible practices. By supporting these initiatives, we can ensure that oud remains a cherished ingredient for generations to come.
Embracing Oud in Everyday Life
Incorporating oud into your daily routine can be a delightful experience. Whether through perfumes, incense, or essential oils, oud can enhance your environment. Its rich aroma can create a calming atmosphere, perfect for relaxation or meditation.
Conclusion
Oud is more than just a fragrance; it is a connection to nature, culture, and history. By choosing sustainable options, we contribute to the preservation of this precious resource. Let us embrace the beauty, healing, and sustainability of oud in our lives and support the artisans who bring this enchanting essence to us.
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